DIY Voltage Stabilizer

Izso

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I noticed that all the photos hosted on photobucket has reached the bandwitdh limit, so here's another place where I posted this: https://www.ek9.org/index.php?threads/how-to-make-your-own-voltage-stabilizer.72091/
nice... I think i had a friend make something along the same concepts as yours. Made a world of a difference. My biggest regret was selling it. But did you use all those expensive type caps like panasonic and all those noise / harmonic thingamajid type caps? (Sorry I'm not electronically inclined)
 
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vr2turbo

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nice... I think i had a friend make something along the same concepts as yours. Made a world of a difference. My biggest regret was selling it. But did you use all those expensive type caps like panasonic and all those noise / harmonic thingamajid type caps? (Sorry I'm not electronically inclined)
My ex R&D guy in my ex factory did one on his own too. Don't look good (no nice cover) but all the stuff he use were the good ones......:driver:
 

Kevinho

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Mar 4, 2018
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Hi guys. I would like to share my experience building a voltage stabilizer for my old Civic. The purpose of this device, as with all automotive voltage stabilizers, is to reduce electrical noise and distortions within the vehicle. Electrical noise comes from distributor, alternator, automatic transmission solenoids, certain relays etc.

Okay, back to the main story. First, after figuring out the space available under the bonnet and taking the measurements, I design the circuit using a circuit design software. The only suitable place I can find is between the battery and intake manifold. I want to have around 100,000uF of total capacitance. After researching on the internet, I found out that in order for the voltage stabilizer to 'absorb' or dampen many types of electrical noises within the car, it is also important to reduce the ESR (equivalent series resistance) so that the currents from the electrical noise can easily flow in and out of the device. So in this case, instead of using some big capacitors like the 50,000uF monsters, I use many smaller ones.



3D view of the design:



It turns out I can only fit 14 units of 4700uF 35V caps and 11 units of 2200uF 35V caps within the space available. The total capacitance is 90,000uF, pretty close to my target. Next, I use a rapid prototyping CnC machine to fabricate the printed circuit board (PCB). Modern tech certainly made life easier. No more messing around with the nasty ferric chloride PCB etching solution. :thefinger:





The completed bare board:



After the caps are soldered:



I put a 20 amp fuse for protection:



Hot glue is applied between the caps to make them more rigid. Engine vibrations can make solder joints crack.



The main copper tracks are soldered with extra layer of lead to lower the resistance and improve current carrying capacity:



I made up the casing using some wood planks. Hopefully the low heat conductivity of wood will increase the life of the capacitors. Living under the bonnet sure will suck the life out of them. :rolleyes:



I drill some holes for the PCB stand and put some industrial resin there to support it.



After the + and - wires are soldered, the board is put into the wooden box.



After the connectors are put to the wire ends, I use some heat shrink tube to secure them. The device is now completed. :love:



I secure it to the battery using cable ties. The box is actually supported by the battery holder.



I haven't got time to test this device yet. I'll let you guys know the results later. :listen:
Hi Guys, Im new here. Can you guys help me with this? I cant seem to see the pictures in the forum :(
 

vr2turbo

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Hi Guys, Im new here. Can you guys help me with this? I cant seem to see the pictures in the forum :(
Cannot see is because the member who posted the pictures, using photobucket and they do not support free hosting anymore....
 

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