4G93 DOHC Problems

sanekit

1,500 RPM

sanekit

1,500 RPM
Dec 9, 2015
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663
Petaling Jaya
standard size. Not sure the size. Currently using aftermarket 350mm. Just nice.
Mod not much on that subaru steering. Clock spring cable connection only.
I still modify the clock spring connector for hub and aftermarket steering.
Wah. You install clock spring ah?

mine is a 350mm Momo, perfect fit :driver:
Nice laa got MOMO

Here's my chap kuda one

260kmh meter tu......

issuzark is king of ulu yam
 

Izso

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Izso

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Sanekit - actually why haven't you discussed your wiring issues here. Perhaps some fellas here might see something your mech missed.
 

drummydrew

Known Member

drummydrew

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Dec 7, 2015
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UPDATE on AC/Idling problem: as suggested by parakey and sanekit, i was at a DIY session with DDT as he guided me through the adjustment of TPS with multi meter. managed to get the reading right, screwed it down, did adjustments on the BISS screw (pretty much textbook style like links yous shared), started the car..

OK, good news is we finally made sure the stepper motor is working and TPS adjustment right - AC on, the RPM dropped and then was compensated, implying that signals are normal.

here comes the bad news, the RPM dropped to 600 then was re-compensated to only ~750 (NOT ENOUGH)

as we looked on, i'll first have to point out that my car is a VDO stock converted to MMC. ECU socket is MMC as opposed to VDO's 3 pin socket if not mistaken. based on Evo3 and '95 Mirage's ecu chart, my socket is MISSING 2 cables in 2 pins

PIN 37 - power steering pressure switch (yellow wire), non-existent from PS pump to socket
PIN 45 - AC compression relay (green&yellow wire), connected from AC fuse but not to socket aka patahilang

now, assuming these missing signals could be the factors why the ECU isn't processing, hence the slight void in RPM compensation during idling. opinions? i'll pry more at the mean time :stupido2:
 
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sweelt

2,000 RPM

sweelt

2,000 RPM
Nov 6, 2016
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Penang
750 rpm should be ok. if you check online mitsu manuals, 750-800rpm idling. AC on, 900rpm idling.

Adjust ISC/stepper motor ? If you still not satisfy. I have bad time as you.
Since i in Pg, DDT Franky at KL lahhh. Cant meet him. Buy tps and isc from him too. Good quality.
Try this way, which my last resort. Bit tough but will make sure isc is at correct position.
Warm up ur engine then off.
Unplug new isc connector, plug the cable to old isc as a decoy for ECU.
Unscrew the new isc (2 screw). Take out the whole piece from TB. Dont drop the O-ring.
ISC have 3 screw, unscrew it. Use flat screwdriver, slowly pull it out. Got one spring inside too.
Set aside spring piece.
Now the nipple piece. Use finger to rotate magnetic rotor clockwise/anti-clockwise, u will see it move in/out. Measure it or count it.
ISC.jpg
Set it to middle. Fix 2 piece together put back into TB.
While connector still with old isc, start the engine. Adjust BISS screw. Set 800rpm. Stable idling, off engine.
Plug connector back to new isc. Start engine then drive, AC ON.

Scantool method also same, it will lock the ISC position, then only adjust BISS screw. Less hassle loh. :rolleyes:
 
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parakey

1,000 RPM
Senior Member

parakey

1,000 RPM
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Apr 30, 2012
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Kuala Lumpur
OK, good news is we finally made sure the stepper motor is working and TPS adjustment right - AC on, the RPM dropped and then was compensated, implying that signals are normal.

here comes the bad news, the RPM dropped to 600 then was re-compensated to only ~750 (NOT ENOUGH)
Have you tried sweelt's method yet?
 

drummydrew

Known Member

drummydrew

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Thread starter
Dec 7, 2015
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Petaling Jaya
Hello all, been too long since I last camped in here My Satria has finally got into a new set of problems which I can share here!

All started when I noticed puddles of oil where I parked. It wasn’t engine oil but gear oil, leakage was near the flywheel so had no choice but to drop the gearbox. As you can see..

EDB158B7-9340-4529-91BA-85528E0219E7.jpeg

supposed to be oil-free but it’s clearly wet

E7D6C251-F856-4F2C-99E7-D6CD455B0FE0.jpeg

punctured housing, that’s where the leakage was from. Something must have broken!

CA73F51E-88CE-4E05-9BA4-1B6AB64E2526.jpeg

One of the flywheel nuts were broken, couldn’t find the fragment. With this, it has damaged more parts..

6C3F1930-E1C2-4950-921A-DAE9CE0CF0CD.jpeg

All edges of the clutch cover

4B9016A7-150C-40E0-92E2-F6DCC5F1B313.jpeg

clutch springs have been hit

It all happened so quick that the gears showed no problems of noise and shifting except for the leakage. Car is sitting at my mechanic’s place now. Already bought new clutch set, pumps, drive shafts and some minor parts while we are at it.

With reconditioning the gearbox out of the question, I am left with the biggest problem now - a new used gearbox. My existing gearbox is a Wira 1.8 / Putra / GTI variant with code F5M222VRXE paired to a 4G93. Shopped around chop shops and most only have 1.6 normal variants which is a no go for me. Until now, came across a Mivec LSD unit with code F5M222XRWE and my mind is at the crossroads.

In the case of not being able to source a same 1.8 GB, should I:

1. Reconsider servicing / welding my broken one, slap it on while I continue the search.

OR

2. Get the 1.6 MIVEC one instead. If so, how big is the effect in the drive? I’ve read about the final drive and ratio difference between the 1.8 and MIVEC but I still need advices. The car is mostly driven on highway KL-Ipoh.

Helpppp
 
Last edited:

Izso

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Helmet Clan
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Izso

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Mar 28, 2004
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Hello all, been too long since I last camped in here My Satria has finally got into a new set of problems which I can share here!

All started when I noticed puddles of oil where I parked. It wasn’t engine oil but gear oil, leakage was near the flywheel so had no choice but to drop the gearbox. As you can see..

View attachment 578857
supposed to be oil-free but it’s clearly wet

View attachment 578858
punctured housing, that’s where the leakage was from. Something must have broken!

View attachment 578859
One of the flywheel nuts were broken, couldn’t find the fragment. With this, it has damaged more parts..

View attachment 578860
All edges of the clutch cover

View attachment 578861
clutch springs have been hit

It all happened so quick that the gears showed no problems of noise and shifting except for the leakage. Car is sitting at my mechanic’s place now. Already bought new clutch set, pumps, drive shafts and some minor parts while we are at it.

With reconditioning the gearbox out of the question, I am left with the biggest problem now - a new used gearbox. My existing gearbox is a Wira 1.8 / Putra / GTI variant with code F5M222VRXE paired to a 4G93. Shopped around chop shops and most only have 1.6 normal variants which is a no go for me. Until now, came across a Mivec LSD unit with code F5M222XRWE and my mind is at the crossroads.

In the case of not being able to source a same 1.8 GB, should I:

1. Reconsider servicing / welding my broken one, slap it on while I continue the search.

OR

2. Get the 1.6 MIVEC one instead. If so, how big is the effect in the drive? I’ve read about the final drive and ratio difference between the 1.8 and MIVEC but I still need advices. The car is mostly driven on highway KL-Ipoh.

Helpppp
ouch bro...

and the mivec gb ratios are not the same as the 1.8 one but pretty close. But I doubt it'll affect your driving too much. Since it's available now - why not just use it? IIRC the Mivec ratios are pretty long too so for highway driving ok la.


UPDATE - so I just found out after all these years that I've been lied to and there's no 1.8L Mivec. Hahaha.. means those 1.8 Mivecs I saw have been using the 4G93 gb all along.
 
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lsm1991

1,000 RPM
Senior Member

lsm1991

1,000 RPM
Senior Member
Sep 30, 2011
1,469
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1,663
PJ
hoho better hunt for the above....

mivec boxes are nice and all (lsd was optional i believe) but for ur use case.. long distance driving, im not sure u will like it
 

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