Engine Oil Grade (meaning?)

adornis

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Ok..guys/gals, here is a question I am curious about quite some time. Its about engine oil. Im not sure u all notice, but engine oils come in different grade (10w-40, 20w-50,...). In layman term, its synthetic, semi-syn and mineral grade.

But I notice, each brand has got different grade, i.e. Shell Helix (normal), i comes in 20W-50, Shell semi-syn and Petronas Syn (15W-50). Eneos, has lost of grades..

What is the meaning of all this? If i previosly use BP (10w-40), now i plan to use Shell Helix (20W-50), is it ok? or should i use 15w-40? Which is better? I know lower "w", can only get it for synthetic oils and the higher "w" is cheaper..

Please help.thanks

Peter
 

Booze

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1st value, The lower value = better fuel consumption as the oil flow better. This will also give ur engine better protection during cold morning start.
2nd value, This is the protection value = the higher the better as the oil will not loose the protection value during extreme temp.
 

adornis

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tq bros..please feel free to add anymore comments:)
 

huakenny

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the value before 'W' is for winter use. since our country is not applicalbe, so its not important for us to foucs on tat.

the value after 'W' is viscosity.the thickness of the oil. the higher the number, the thicker it is.

different grade of oil is for different type of engine. NA engine cannot use too thick and Turbocharged engine cannot use too thin.

for example, 20w50 normaly is in mineral based, 10w40 synthetic based while 5w40 in fully syn based.

if u r using 10w40 now, n wish to change to 20w50. i guess u r downgrading frm semi syn to mineral based oil rite? from the price of the oil, i guess u oledi know as mineral based oil is kinda cheap.

20w50 is thicker/heavier than 10w40.

btw, wat car le?
 

adornis

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thanks..
im planning to use 15w-40, Eneos..ya downgrade.
im driving iswara..its a 8 year car, so i dont see any point in buying expensive semi-syn oil..comments?:)
tq
 

akubudakshahalam

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Oil thins when heated and thickens when cooled. Choosing the proper viscosity grade for the ambient temperature of your geographic location is therefore vitally important.
A monograde is an oil whose viscosity is defined at only one temperature, either high or low. A multigrade must meet both high and low temperature viscosity requirements simultaneously.
This makes multigrades an easy and popular year-round choice for drivers who experience hot summers and harsh winters. Multigrades are easily recognized by the dual viscosity designation (i.e. 10W-30 where the 10W is the low temperature or winter designation and the 30 is the high temperature designation). It is the viscosity modifier additive that produces a thickening effect at high temperatures but is dormant at low temperatures.
Which viscosity grade is right for you?

SAE Viscosity Grade Motor Oil: 5W-30
Temperature Conditions: Below 0° F
Descriptions: Provides excellent fuel economy and low temperature performance in most late-model automobiles. Especially recommended for new cars.

SAE Viscosity Grade Motor Oil: 10W-30
Temperature Conditions: Above 0° F
Descriptions: Most frequently recommended viscosity grade for most automobile engines, including high-performance multivalve engines and turbo-charged engines.

SAE Viscosity Grade Motor Oil: 10W-40 - Castrol Magnatec
Temperature Conditions: Above 0° F
Descriptions: The first multigrade introduced. A good choice for controlling engine wear and preventing oil breakdown from oxidation. Note: Always check your owner's manual or warranty requirements before using this grade.

SAE Viscosity Grade Motor Oil: 20W-50 - Castrol GTX Extra
SAE Viscosity Grade: 20W-50 Temperature Conditions: Above 20° F
Descriptions: Provides maximum protection for high-performance, high-RPM racing engines. Excellent choice for high temperature and heavy loads such as driving in the desert or towing a trailer at high speeds for long periods of time.

SAE Viscosity Grade Motor Oil: SAE 30 & SAE 40
Temperature Conditions: Above 40° F & Above 60° F
Descriptions: For cars and light trucks, where recommended by manufacturers. Not recommended when cold-temperature starting is required.
Note: It is important to consult your vehicle handbook to establish the correct grade for your car and environment.


Why Choose a Synthetic Motor Oil?
Synthetic lubricants are engineered to do the job of a conventional lubricant, but better, as they can be specifically designed to fulfill particular needs. (see The Expert's section on THE BASICS). Though a bit more costly to produce and therefore more expensive to buy, synthetic lubricants can offer significant performance advantages because they remain stable in extreme temperatures.

Basics about motor oil
All lubricants fall into one of three categories: liquid (oil), semi-liquid (grease), and solid (graphite). All three are derived from vegetable, mineral, or synthetic base stock. However, if raw materials alone are used to lubricate modern, high-precision machinery, they quickly overheat, catch fire, evaporate or emulsify. This allows fast moving parts to come into direct contact, and can result in irreparable damage to their surfaces. To guard against this, all lubricants are processed to remove impurities and are bolstered with chemical additives.

Read more about motor oil the basics
Synthetic lubricants, however, are manufactured specifically to stand up to the severe conditions under which conventional oils might falter. They possess viscosity characteristics superior to those of mineral oils. The resulting lubricants have a molecular structure that meet and often exceed manufacturers' criteria for high-performance engines.
Among the many performance advantages that synthetic lubricants offer is their ability to remain stable at high temperatures (under which conventional oils begin to break down) and remain fluid at low temperatures (under which conventional oils begin to thicken). This provides optimum lubrication at extreme temperatures, reducing wear for a cleaner, more efficient engine.

Synthetic Motor Oil Grades
Synthetic Motor Oil Grades Synthetics are sometimes mixed with conventional mineral oils to produce a cost-effective middle ground between the two, referred to as a "semi” or “part-synthetic." However, while semi or part-synthetics and conventional mineral oils are both capable lubricants, fully synthetic lubricants provide the highest level of engine protection.

that is what i manage to get.its just a simple english.i hope everyone is clear now about engine oil grading.sharing is caring.
 
Last edited:

jeffayn

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i alwyas tell my client that older cars doesn't mean see no future using good engine oils. few thing to put into consideration

1. oil change interval, a basic mineral engine oils will last you 5-7k easily. A semi will easily 7-10k. mileague wise, the oil value is taken consideration. not to mention the visit time to the mechanic. if you put on 5k every month, I am pretty sure you will be too lazy to roll over your mechanic every month...

2. not all oil is equal.... oil does not only lubricate and protect your engine from over heating, but it also cleans the engine and also to protect environment. say you change 5 bottle less of engine oil in one year by using longer interval oil. that is about 20liters, with 7 million car running, that is about 140 millions of lubricants... sound scary ? haha... reducing the use of petrol & engine oil is a social responsibilities.

better graded engine oil also will reduce the harmful emission to the environment. a driving car produce about 15-20kg of CO2 / 100km , so init contain small level of CO which is very harmful and some heavy oxygen. With the aid of new additive is better grade engine oil, the harmful emission is able to reduce...

I know its a lot of talk based on engine oil, but as castrol say, is not just oil but liquid engineering ... hahaha...
 

zendengoh

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thanks..
im planning to use 15w-40, Eneos..ya downgrade.
im driving iswara..its a 8 year car, so i dont see any point in buying expensive semi-syn oil..comments?:)
tq
should determine the engine condition which relate how well u maintenance it, not by time to judge the engine.
 

GT_AUTO

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1st value, The lower value = better fuel consumption as the oil flow better. This will also give ur engine better protection during cold morning start.
2nd value, This is the protection value = the higher the better as the oil will not loose the protection value during extreme temp.
sorry to tell u this bro but ur explanation is wrong.no hard feeling.:burnout:
 

zendengoh

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ya, its misleading.
 

akubudakshahalam

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1st value is COLD START TEMPERATURE where you are having your car right now.

2nd value is the VISCOCITY.the higher means the thicker the oils.lower means thinner oil.it is recommended that old engine use a higher viscocity.not the lower viscocity.if your car never done overhaul and just done some regular service,better stick with thick oil.

if not your engine will leaking here and there because of the engine oil lower viscocity.
 

zendengoh

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your "old" engine is determine by year or condition?
 

netmatrix

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If your saga is already 8 years old, without any noticable engine wear like white smoke, then you can continue to use 10/40 engine oils. But if you have white smoke problem use 20/50. The thick oil actually creates a seal at the piston rings and lessen the effect of white smoke. Do not use 10/30 because they are cheap! It would cause even more problems. If you have been using 20/50 for the last year, do not start to use 10/40. Then engine will wear out even if its a RM200 engine oil.

Unless the engine goes for an overhaul, then you can start to use those expensive synthetic oils.

Many guys here recommend very expensive oils without taking into consideration engine life and condition. So be wise about it.

My 79 toyota went though the process of "being smart but not intelligent" before. So i can tell you now.
 

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