My MR2 turbo upgrade project

Green06

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Hi All MR bros,
I have been trying to upgrade my turbo for a long time and not much progress.:stupid:
Here I have finally start my project, just to share ...........:proud:
Attached here is a custom built SS turbo header with equal length thick walled ( 2.2 mm ) for my GT-3037 turbo.:proud:
I ordered this SS header + down pipe for less than RM2K from Bangkok, delivered to my door step - no tax.
The OEM hdr weigh 7kg. where else the SS hdr. weigh 5 kg. 2 Kg saving in weight :proud:
This header is well built with 5/8" Thk. manifold flange and 1/2" turbo flange.
How about a JUN intake manifold replica?:love: Anyone interested?:rolleyes: Can do a group buy to reduce price hopefully.:hmmmm:

Will post more photos later...........:wavey:
 

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Green06

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Here is the phtos of the hdr weigh.........
My Garette GT3037 turbo..............brand new up for offer...........this cost RM5K today.
Reason, I have another turbo at TOM's which I could use and it only weighs 6Kg as compared to GT3037 which weighs 8Kg.
 

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sivaworld

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have you got everything done, so how is it now ? Have you dyno already ?

 

Green06

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No dyno yet, all being done. Next step to change out my Mines ECU to MegaSquirt and remove the AFM. AFM cud be restrictive to the GT3037 seeing some lag also cud be b'cos it needs a standalone to retune.
 

tom's

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that turbo can produce up to 500hp.....hahahaha
 

Green06

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Hi Guys, I am back again....... I asked one shop in PJ for the K&N filter 6" cone cost RM290.00 and the aluminium cone cost RM90.00. Is the price reasonable? Where can I get a 2feet long of 4" dia. aluminium pipe? Ah Hing Exh? Intend to change out / remove my AFM so that I can go max to 500HP with my GT30R ( aka 3037 )turbo ha aha ah !:biggrin:. Still looking for a suitable IC to reduce lag.:slug: Plan to do water / methanol injection that will bring my setup to above 500HP, but that will blow up my engine in no time. So far what I have done to my engine:
a) JE piston
b) Reduced CR to 8.5 with Cometec MHG 1.6 mm.
c) Fully balanced engine internals
d) OS Giken Twin plate clutch
e) HKS 256 street cam set with HKS valve springs.
f) Modified OEM Cam sprocket to adjustable type.
g) Garrett GT-30R ( aka 3037 ) BB turbo ( 500 hp ) with 4" inlet.
h) SS turbo header and 3" down pipe all the way to a FSK Titanium muffler.
i) Tien Flex fully adjustable suspension.
j) Redo my suspension geometry setup......experimenting in progress to make the car understeer rather than the inherited oversteer of the car.
k) Recardo seat ( 1 pair Red out from a DC5 ) waiting to be installed once I have completed my mod else it gets dirty super fast.
l) Blitz 2 piece rim with Bridgestone rubber ( Potenza RE-01R F 205x45x16X 8JJ-38 R 235x40x17x 9JJ - 45 ) waiting to installed.
m) Megasquirt standalone ECU waiting to be installed but need to redo the connectors. My setup is crank triggering and wasted spark ( no more distributor ).
n) Need to custom made fuel rail, rail bar available waiting for end mill to bore the injector holes.
o) Bosch 770 cc top feed injectors waiting to be installed.
p) Custom made ( Junk shop ) intake manifold to be mod to mount 245 TB. ( too expensive for the JUN replica intake manifold, wanted USD900, maybe next time ).
There is alot of work waiting to be done before my project is fully completed. It will have to be in stages. This is DIY fun..........:biggrin:
 

iexit

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Nice, quick finish the project :-D i wanna see...

MRMIC has got a super duper Apexi Double (OEM style) IC, ask if if he still wants it... :-) as for filter why not try AEM the American brand? looks good... about the same price.
 

Green06

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Replace the OEM ECU with a standalone which uses MAP instead of AFM.
 

Green06

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Iexit, I hv just bought the K&N and I went to the website and AEM dry filter seems to be the best. Anyawy just too late. Hv not install the K&N yet. Bought the cone too.......all cost me RM370. total. Kakimotor almost double of what I paid. Anyway thanks.
 

Green06

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Hi,....back again in my project, completed today in lowering my MR2 the proper way...........
Installed the RCA on the front arms. Highly recommended for all who lowered their cars. This RCA helps to correct back the arms' geometry to reduce oversteer of the car. Without the RCA and the car lowered, the front wheel will tend to go to positive camber when taking a sharp corner and this is dangerous. See attached photo.....
 

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Green06

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Next, tackle the toe in problem when lowering the MR2. MR2 has a unique setup with the steering rack installed in front of the front wheel where else all other cars ( Evo, RX, STI, Protons, and others daily vehicles ) have their steering rack installed behind the front wheel. ( I believe the designer did it with a purpose ie. to make it oversteer.) When the car is lowered, both left & right side steering rack end points upwards. During a sharp corner. The wheel moves upward further thus causing the steering link to moves up and this pulls in the wheel and indirectly causing excessive toe in. This makes the car oversteer more and it is dangerous, ( I have experienced this B4 I write this as I have been doing some practical research on it.) Extremely dangerous in corners and you can't go fast, the tails keep wanna swing out. The solution is to install a pair of this aftermarket link end.
See attached photo #1.......This helps to bring down the link to almost parallel to the road or neutral position. So during a sharp corners, the link will not pull in too much that causes excessive toe in.

The #2 & 3 photo shows the arm with the RCA and the steering link end ( without the aftermarket link end ) pointing upward.....while the lower arms stay at neutral or parallel to the ground.

The #4 & 5 photo shows the the aftermarket link end installed and notice the it is parallel / neutral to the ground.
 

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Green06

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ALERT!!!!!! :bandit: When installing the RCA on the front wheel, be extra careful on the steering rack end as it does not have enough thread into the the link end. I found out it had 3 to 4 threads that is threaded in. Another set of problem arise. This is dangerous with 3 to 4 threads attached. A hard bump might reap off these threads and you are on your own without steering control.
Next comes another project to source for a longer end rack.
I found it, Toyota AE92 is 1 inch longer than MR2. But a different set of problem here again. The thread to the steering rack on the MR2 ori is M12 x 1.25 thread where else AE92 is a M14 x 1.5 thread. Again to find a M12 x 1.25 end rack is rather impossible as most cars uses M14 x 1.5 thread, unless to order from Wing Hin but it is just too short for this project. So have to carry out some modification to the steering rack ie. drill and retapped to M14 x 1.5 thread. The other plus point is you can use any Toyota parts which is readily available in the market as M12 is rather rare.
Photo #1 shows the AE92 end rack ( 555 brand made in Japan ).
Photo # 2 shows the difference in length........the top one is the AE92 ( 555 brand ) the 2 bottoms are the ori ones which is 1 inch shorter.
 

Green06

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System could not accomodate photos earlier, must be a hickup or somthing else.....Here are the photos............
Photo #1 shows......AE92 end rack ( 555 Brand Made in Japan )
Photo #2 shows the difference in length.
Photo #3 & 4 shows the difference in the thread size.
Photo #5 shows the extra 1 inch length on the new rack end.

Unfortunately could not attach photos # 3, 4 & 5 as it keeps telling me the connection failed.
Will post tomorrow . I have also done my rear arms will post more photos later....stay tuned....:driver::smokin::wavey::biggrin:
 

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